Ramie is a natural fiber with unique properties and many advantages. Let’s follow Ramie’s story in this article!

Discovering Ramie: An Ancient Textile Treasure

Ramie is an ancient natural fiber that has been used by mankind for more than 10,000 years (it was used as early as the Neolithic Age, 5,000 years before silk, 6,000 years before wool, and 9,000 years before cotton). 

As a plant native to the Orient, ramie has been cultivated as a fiber in East Asia since prehistoric times, mainly in China and Malaysia. The varieties of ramie in the two regions are much the same, and the common name ‘ramie’ in use is derived from the Malaysian word ‘rami’. Ramie was introduced to the Netherlands as an ornamental plant in 1733, to France in 1844, to England in 1844, and to the United States in 1857. 

Although ramie has long been spread around the world, its influence has been limited. Except for professionals in the textile industry, few people are familiar with ramie.

In ancient times, ramie was considered an affordable fiber crop. Being a perennial plant, ramie does not need to be reseeded every season. Ramie also grows very quickly. In the humid tropics, it can be harvested three times a year. 

Thousands of years ago, before cotton was introduced to East Asia, silk, leather, and ramie were the main forms of clothing in Asia. The high price of silk was unaffordable to ordinary people, and animal furs were not suitable for wearing at higher temperatures, therefore, ramie became the most commonly used raw material for clothing.

Ramie has many advantages. As a hemp plant, ramie fiber is naturally anti-bacterial and highly breathable, which ensures a comfortable feeling when it is processed into clothing. Compared to linen, ramie has twice the strength and is much stronger in wet conditions. In fact, ramie is one of the strongest of the common natural fibers used for textile purposes.

Ramie is mainly grown in humid areas between 19 degrees and 39 degrees north latitude, where monthly precipitation ranges from 75-130mm. The most suitable soil for ramie is sandy soil that is rich in nutrients. In addition, ramie yield increases with the thickness of the soil layer, soil organic matter, total nitrogen, total phosphorus, and effective phosphorus content.

From Stalks to Threads: The Intricate Process of Making Ramie Fabric

As bast fibers, ramie fibers are extracted in a variety of steps.

When the lower epidermis of the stem begins to turn brown and smaller new stems grow around it, it is ready to harvest. The stems are usually harvested by hand, and the fibers are extracted from the skin. 

In the beginning, ramie fabric was made using an ancient process called ‘Shabu’. Ramie fabric was made by going through twelve processes, including beating, bleaching, scraping, performance, pulling the hemp, pulling the hemp ball, pulling the hemp taro, warping, buttoning, sizing, weaving, rinsing, shaping, then finally making the finished product. 

This production process is very time-consuming and labor-intensive, and the cost is high. Moreover, because of the complexity of the process, a large number of steps need to rely on the experience of the processor to deal with flexibility. Nowadays, the ‘Shabu’ process has been nearly lost. 

The modern hemp spinning industry, similar to the cotton and wool spinning industries, uses chemicals in the treatment and processing of the fibers, as well as in the dyeing process, which means that the production of the fibers causes pollution of the environment. Due to the large amount of gum in ramie fibers, the degumming process is very complicated and consumes a lot of resources. 

In ancient times, due to the lack of chemical knowledge, the degumming of ramie was mainly done by ‘wet macerate’, which is an environmentally friendly method. However, there is a large amount of gummy residue, resulting in a poor quality of the finished fiber. Modern degumming is mainly based on chemical degumming, which consumes a large amount of acid and alkali, and uses a huge amount of water. 

Researchers have always been committed to developing a more environmentally friendly degumming technology. Currently, there is a combination of biological enzymes and chemical degumming, which can effectively reduce the use of acid and alkali. 

With the advancement of technology, a purely biological degumming method will surely be developed in the future, making the entire Ramie fiber production chain pollution-free and low-carbon.

The Unique Characteristics of Ramie Material

Ramie has many unique characteristics, such as heat dissipation, moisture absorption, high luster, mildew resistance, heat and light resistance, and high tensile strength. The specific performance is as follows:

• Heat dissipation: The greatest advantage of hemp is its superior heat dissipation, which is 19 times higher than that of silk. According to research, wearing full hemp clothing compared to wearing cotton and silk clothing, the human skin surface temperature can be lowered by 3 to 4 degrees Celsius.
• High Moisture Absorbency: It can absorb moisture vapor dispersed from the skin, ensuring freshness when wearing it.
• Luster: Ramie fiber has a natural silk luster that gives the fabric a shiny and attractive appearance. This luster is often compared to the luster of silk, which is why ramie fiber is also known as ‘plant silk’.
• Mildew Resistant: Ramie is naturally resistant to mildew, bacteria and mold, making it ideal for use in humid environments.
• Heat and Light Resistant: Ramie fibers are heat and light resistant and retain their strength and color for a long period of time.
• High Tensile Strength: Ramie fibers are incredibly strong, and even stronger when wet. This makes them very durable and resistant to stretching.
• Biodegradable: As a natural fiber, ramie is biodegradable, which contributes to its sustainability. It breaks down more easily than synthetic fibers, which reduces its impact on the environment.

The quality of ramie fiber depends mainly on the fineness because it directly affects spinnability and softness. The finer the fiber, the higher the quality, the higher the spinnable count, and the softer the yarn. 

However, the fineness is not only related to the variety of Ramie itself, but also to the harvesting period. The earlier the harvesting, the finer the fiber is, but the production rate and fiber strength will be lower. Therefore, how to balance yield and quality is a true test of the manufacturer’s expertise.

Caring for Ramie: Keeping Your Garments Strong and Beautiful

Ramie fabric is easy to maintain. In general, the care method is similar to that of linen fabrics. Consumers can machine wash Ramie fabrics in warm water at 30-40°C using regular detergents and tumble dry on high speed (Please avoid wringing out the fabrics by hand as this may damage the fibers). 

There is no need to pay special attention to the drying of ramie fabrics. Regular hanging or machine drying is sufficient (it should be noted that machine drying may cause slight linting on the surface of Ramie fabrics). 

If the ramie fabric becomes wrinkled, it can be ironed normally with an ironing machine. It is important to note that it should be ironed from the back side of the fabric to avoid damage to the seams of the fabric. When ramie fabrics are not worn for a long period of time, simply store them in a cool and dry place.

If you want to know more about Ramie’s story and products, please visit our website: www.ramiefabric.com